With its many waterways and parks, Hamburg is undoubtedly a pretty city. But there’s a vibrant “alternative” scene behind its conservative facade. The Reeperbahn is its infamous party and red light district, but just a few streets away is a rich bistro and street food scene as well as cool cafes, bars and clubs. Dig further and there are lots of hip hangouts such as the occupied former theatre Rote Flora in the Sternschanze district, the artists’ quarter Gängeviertel, or the Golden Pudel Club (pudel.com), recently resurrected after a fire.
Where to eat
Hamburg is still Germany’s most important port, and with international trade have come international cuisines. Try the Indian bistro Badshah (Bremer Reihe 24, no website) in colourful St Georg. It’s not romantic, but the paneer and lentil curry is a must (€6.50). Din Hau, on the other side of Hamburg’s main station, is a simple place, but serves possibly the best Cantonese roasted duck you’ll ever taste (€8.50). For street food, brothers Koral and Onur Elci opened Focacceria Bonassola earlier this year close to Altona station– just looking at the golden foccacia with spinach, gorgonzola or spicy salsiccia is a sensual experience.Where to drink
The practice of “cornering” has been around for a couple of summers now: crowds gather by kiosks or in front of bars to start the night off by downing a €1.50 beer. Try the Tabakbörse kiosk in Sternschanze. If the weather’s bad, the streets between Sternschanze and St Pauli are full of great bars, such as the Walrus Bar) or Clockers, a tiny gin bar that has a tree growing in the middle and moss on the walls, and produces its own spirits. At Toast Bar, a few blocks away, people crack peanuts until late in the night and listen to changing DJ sets. Have a last drink at the Golem bar on the other side of the Reeperbahn then climb down the secret stairway behind the bookshelves to the club below. On Saturday nights, it’s fun to stay there till sunrise then sober up with a mackerel bun from the nearby fish market, which opens at 5am on Sundays.Where to stay
The 25hours hotels, are good options (doubles from €90), with sails, storm lamps and other vintage accessories adding to the seafaring atmosphere. For a more youthful (and cheaper) option, the simple but beautifully designed rooms at Superbude Hostels in St Pauli and St.Georg (dorm beds from €16, doubles from €60). They’re decorated with recycled furniture and framed quotes from visiting bloggers, authors and journalists.If you do just one thing …
Walk from the main station along the Kunstmeile – “Art Mile” – towards HafenCity, pass the Deichtorhallen – House of Photography and step into the Oberhafen quarter. The former trainyard – with the old brick warehouse walls that characterise the city – is full of surprises like the Hanseatische Materialverwaltung, a huge non-profit repository of old theatre and cinema props and equipment, where the curious can rummage among giant noses, Godzilla costumes, jukeboxes and more.
Malte Brenneisen and Urs Spindler are the editors of Gentle Rain magazine
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