Carvings on the temples of Bagan suggest the Myanmar sport of Lethwei is over a thousand years old. Kept active in the eastern border states of Karen and Mon, the first official Lethwei championship tournament in Myanmar was held in 2000.
Sandra Weller meets the ladies taking up Myanmar`s traditional bare-knuckle martial art.
Behind a hidden red gate in a quiet neighbourhood of Yangon lies the Thut Ti Lethwei Club. Its doors are open to dedicated students who focus their energy on a local martial art known as Lethwei. The club is nothing like an air-conditioned modern fitness studio; this is a raw and candid space. Corrugated iron and plastic canvas sheets protect the wooden boxing ring from wind and rain. Stacked car tyres are visible on the side and punching bags that hang from the ceiling comprise just some of the boxing equipment used in the training area.
Mr. Win Zin Oo, a former fighter himself, founded Thut Ti Lethwei 30 years ago. "Anyone who is interested can experience Lethwei here," he explains. "Doing Lethwei isn't only about having a strong body and learning tough techniques, but also about having a gentle mind and a kind heart."
The ring is surrounded by photos boasting some of the biggest stars of the club, including one of Myanmar's most renowned fighters - Lone Chaw - who also trained in this very ring.
Myanmar`s traditional bare-knuckle martial art is considered to be even more hard-core than Thailand`s Muay Thai boxing. It incorporates all body parts - fists, elbows, knees, legs and the head.
With a friendly, warm, almost toothless smile, the great Lone Chaw welcomes his students. A colourful mix of locals and expats from Japan, the Netherlands, France, men and women of all ages wrap their hands ready to get the training started. Students are divided into groups according to their training level. The youngest are the lucky ones, who get to exercise with Lone Chaw in the ring.
Each training session promotes endurance, power and technique. For the warm up, students jump around on car tyres and the first beads of sweat start dropping. Muscle training on the floor is next, then the exhausting punching exercises with the punching bag. Only the brave students show their real pain.
The key differentiators from Muay Thai are the head butts. With no gloves and only a wrapping of the hands in hemp or gauze cloth, Lethwei is considered the boldest and most extreme art of kickboxing. Slower yet stronger techniques include leg kicks, knees, elbows, head butts, raking knuckle strikes and take downs.
While some Lethwei boxers travel to Thailand to compete in Muay Thai contests, many have difficulties competing in international full contact martial art stages, as their extreme style and techniques are often banned from the ring "Only in recent years, have women started to show interest in this traditional sport," says Mr Win Zin Oo. "The first woman here was an expat, but now also local women and young girls are joining classes."
Sandy (Ei Myat Sandy) is 26 years old and from Yangon. She joins the class with her daughter Thaw Tar, 9 years and her sister-in-law Pan Pan, 13 years. Thaw Tar`s nanny is watching from the side and assists the girls with water and their boxing gloves.
When did you start doing Lethwei?I've been doing Lethwei since 2012. I took a long break because I was busy studying for an MBA at Assumption University, Thailand. For the past three or four months I've returned to training. My daughter and sister in law have also joined me.
How often do you train in the Lethwei Ring?I go there every Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
How did you hear about this sport?I heard about this from one of my friends. At that time, I just wanted to go there for weight loss and to get in shape, but when I actually went there, after two or three training sessions I felt like I knew how to use my strength properly and how to protect myself. Not really like a professional, but at least now I have confidence in myself, and I love that feeling so much.
Does your husband think it's a good idea?At first he thought it was just a waste of time and told me to just go to the gym like other women, but when he saw that I really love the sport and that it has become one of my passions, he doesn't complain anymore.
What do your friends think? Are they also interested?They are interested and have asked what I do during training time. When I tell them, most them think it's too extreme and that it's a man's thing. They don't want to hurt their hands or their legs but as you know in every sport: no pain - no gain. Some of my friends just go one time and disappear forever.
Have you encouraged or asked friends and family to come along?Yes, I ask lots of my friends and family to join the class. I also encourage my aunt and my little sister (Pan Pan) to join the class and now they really love doing it. They also go three days in every week.
What do your daughter's classmates think?I heard some of the boys also join Karate or Tae Kwon Do class. My daughter said that when her best friend knew she is doing Lethwei, she asked her: „Woah do you really go there?" And she said: „Yes!" But I told my daughter that going to boxing class is not for bullying or hurting others, it's just for your self confidence and just to know how to use your strength in some situations.
What is your regular job?I help with my husband's family business, which is a cold storage and seafood processing plant. I work as quality assurance.
Have you seen the professional Lethwei boxers in action?I've never had the chance to see a real fight, because in the big fights it's really crowded and not easy to get in, so I've only watched them on TV.
Phyu Phyu is 39 years old and was born in Taunggyi, Shan State. She grew up in Yangon and is married to a Scotsman. She came with her two daughters Kayla, 7 years old and Kay Thi 8 years old, both are half-Scottish and are joined by their nanny who watches them from the side of the ring.
When did you start doing Lethwei?I started Lethwei about 18 months ago.
How did you hear about the sport?A Japanese girl took me.
How often do you go now?We go twice a week, Saturday morning and Sunday evening.
Did your girls start at the same time?No, Kay Thi and Kalya started four months ago. They had been interested in what I'm doing and asked me if they could come too.
Has it had a positive effect on them?Yes, both of their fitness level went up. Kalya gained more confidence in every aspect.
What do you like about the sport?It's good for overall fitness, useful for self-defence and a good way to de-stress.
Have you lived abroad?I lived in Thailand for only two to three months and travelled to the UK for one month.
What is your regular job?I work as an operations manager
Cicily (Ei The`) is 28 years old and from Yangon. She works as a CEO in a company.
Did you grow up in Yangon?No, I grew up in San Francisco, California. I moved back 1½ years ago, because my family lives in Myanmar.
How old were you when you moved to California?I was thirteen years old. I finished 6th grade in Yangon and moved to the states to begin 7th grade.
Do you like living in Yangon now?When I first moved back to Myanmar I had a difficult time transitioning, since my friends and relatives are back in the states. But after a few months, and after making new friends I've become accustom to living back in Yangon.
When did you start doing Lethwei?I started only three months after I moved back to Myanmar.
How did you hear about this training opportunity?Some of my friends had been training there for quite a while and I was getting bored of working out in the regular gym. All the friends training there loved it, so I thought I'll give it a chance and I love it too.
Have you encouraged friends and family to join the class?Yes, I've encouraged my sister, brother in law and my friends and some of them became addicted to the training too.
How often do you go now?I try my best to go almost every day if I'm not busy. It depends on my work schedule but I go at least three to five times a week.
What do you like most about the sport?It is good to relieve aggressions and de-stress, especially after work.
Thut Ti Lethwei Club 893, WonThaRekKiTa Street, Ward (8), KaBaAye, Mayangone Township, Yangon (Near KaBaAye Pagoda) Open: 9:00am to 9:00pm Tel: 09255863344 Email: thuttilethwei@gmail.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/thuttilethwei